Trail Tales: California Dirtbagging (aka Car-camping in the Santa Monica Mountains) Part 1

Friday March 10, 2017:

When my alarm went off, instead of seeing my familiar bedroom walls, I opened my eyes and saw the ceiling of my new temporary home, a rented Toyota Rav-4. I had arrived at LAX at 1am, rented the SUV and driven to the West Hills Walmart where I car-camped for the rest of the night. When they opened their doors at 7am, I was in and out in 30 minutes with everything I needed for the next few days. I flew to California to link up with my fellow Dirtbag Runners who were supporting the Coyote Backbone Ultramarathon and to explore the Santa Monica Mountain Range.

Armed with a GPS and trail maps I had printed back home, I headed to Saddle Peak, the second highest peak in the Santa Monica Range. I had mixed feeling about this area. While it did offer great views of the surrounding hills, there were too many houses in view for my liking. I prefer more remote locations. I spent a couple hours exploring the area, running part of the Backbone Trail, taking photos, and having an early lunch consisting of my favorite meal, a peanut butter and onion sandwich and a Guinness. After my lunch I hit the smaller peaks across the road including “The Lookout” and around an abandoned AT&T communications tower. The views of the mountains and canyons along Piuma and Malibu Canyon roads were beautiful.

My next stop was Solstice Canyon (Solstice Canyon map) located between Malibu Bluffs and Point Dume. The canyon offers much more challenging terrain with deep canyons and very steep climbs. There are a couple of ruins located in the park. The Keller House is a stone cottage built around 1865 and believed to be the oldest stone building in the Malibu area. Further up the main trail is the ruins of Robert’s Ranch. This house once included multiple fireplaces, a pool, waterfall, and even a bomb shelter. Horseshoes and fossils can be found in the foundation and walkways as well as several statues hidden among the trees on the hillside. The Sostomo Trail climbs quickly from the ranch and disappears into the upper canyon. At one point I left the main trail and followed the sound of running water. It was there that I found a small remote waterfall and several small caves to explore. I took a quick dip in the stream and then continued climbing up to the Deer Valley Loop. After returning back to Robert’s Ranch, I crossed the stream and followed the Rising Sun Trail to the TRW Overlook and eventually back down to my home on wheels. If visiting Solstice Canyon Park be aware that the main gate gets locked around sunset so plan accordingly.

After leaving Solstice Canyon I continued driving north-west on the Pacific Coast Highway to my final destination of the day, LaJolla Group Campground. The race director for the Coyote Backbone Ultra had reserved the group area for a limited number of supporters and runners. I found a place to park, made contact with some of the runners and then retired to the back of my vehicle for some dinner. I made a couple more peanut butter and onion sandwiches and washed them down with a couple well-deserved cans of Guinness before slipping into my sleeping bag for the night. Did I mention I brought a couple jars of my favorite peanut butter with me to California? I absolutely love the all-natural peanut butters offered by the Vermont Peanut Butter Company. It’s made in Vermont, like me, so you know it’s good. Check them out at https://www.vtpeanutbutter.com/index.php/ No I don’t get paid to say that, it’s just that good! Seriously!

Saturday, March 11, 2017:

I awoke to another beautiful California day. It was sunny and about 55 degrees which felt great since it was only about 30 degrees back home in New Jersey. I had great views of the Pacific Ocean to my front and the mountains to the rear. It’s easy to understand why people fall in love with this area. I made a few sandwiches, looked over the trail maps and plotted out a plan for the day and then headed south along the Pacific Coast Highway for more adventures. I turned left up Decker Road (Route 23) which quickly climbs into the mountains. This winding road is much like the other, full of sharp winding turns, huge drop-offs and absolutely gorgeous views. I then turned left onto Mulholland Highway and then right onto Little Sycamore Canyon Road to my first destination of the day, God’s Seat. This rock is very close to the road; but, lacking any signage, it could be very easy to miss. The view was fantastic, minus the houses, and its 1000 foot drop-off definitely added to my excitement.

My next stop, and the main focus of the day, was at the Sandstone Peak Trailhead (Circle X Ranch map). The trail climbs for about 0.3 miles where it connects with the Backbone Trail. I turned right and followed the Backbone for about 0.2 miles more before turning left onto the Mishe Mokwa Trail. This trail was easily my favorite of my trip. Echo Cliffs and Balanced Rock can be seen on the other side of the canyon on the way to Split Rock picnic area. From here I took an unimproved trail along the steep hillside to Balanced Rock and then down to Echo Cliffs where I hung out with a group of rock climbers for about an hour.

Departing the climbers, I climbed back up to Balanced Rock where I saw a rattle snake warming itself on the trail. Surprisingly this was the only snake I saw the entire trip. When I returned back to Split Rock I sat in the stream and cooled off a bit before heading toward Tri-Peaks. From this point the Mishe Mokwa opened up into the unrelenting heat of the mid-day sun. Tri-Peaks was fantastic, quiet and remote. I only saw 4 people the entire 3 hours I explored the area. I met a local woman on one of the peaks that said it was her favorite part of the park due to it being so far off the main trails.

From Tri-Peaks, I returned to the Backbone Trail. I temporarily turned off, to the right, and climbed up Water Tower Hill (not its real name). From here I had a great view of Sandstone Peak off in the distance. I met a very nice newlywed couple, Ray and Lisa from Utah on top of Inspiration Point (2800’). They had married just 3 days prior and flew out to California to honeymoon in the Santa Monica Mountains were they had first met a few years ago. I quickly left them to do whatever it is that honeymooners do on a private mountain top. My next stop was the focus of the day, Sandstone Peak sitting above everything else in the range at 3111’. Sandstone, also known as Mt Allen, was bustling with people. I found a place to sit and enjoy a good peanut butter and onion sandwich and a couple cans of warm Guinness. As beautiful as this peak was, I definitely was missing the remoteness and quiet of Tri-Peaks I had enjoyed earlier. After returning to my car, I drove back to LaJolla Group Campground for dinner. There I also link up with Justin, who would be supporting the race at mile 86.5 aid station with me over night.