Trail Tales: Everest Base Camp Trek Part 2

06 October 2018: Into Lukla, “The Most Dangerous Airport in the World”

After 2 short hours sleep (self-inflicted by closing the Irish Pub once again), Asia and I awoke, grabbed our gear and congregated in the hotel lobby with our group waiting for our 6am shuttle to the Kathmandu airport. We had one of the first flights scheduled to depart to Lukla on this day. Since flights into Lukla are regularly delayed or cancelled due to poor weather in the mountains, time was not waisted. We were rushed thru security and baggage check and then out to our plane. As soon as we, and our bags, were securely on board we sped off to the runway and away we went. The 14-passenger aircraft operated by Tara Air was small, loud, and leaking air around the window seals. I sat in the front seat on the left side immediately behind the pilots (the best seat) which gave me full view of the mountain tops just beyond the edge of our plane’s wing as well as a pilot’s view of Lukla’s tiny runway upon our approach. I had seen videos of planes landing (and crashing) at Lukla on YouTube prior to our trip but nothing can truly prepare one for the experience we were about to have. The approach consists of an abrupt drop in elevation, much like that of a rollercoaster, down toward what appears more like someone’s private driveway than a busy runway. Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla, is listed as “The Most Dangerous Airport in the World” due to its very short runway that is perched in the clouds at an elevation over 9000’. It gains approximately 200’ elevation from one end to the other which helps slow incoming aircraft and helps launch outgoing flights. At its lower end, an immediate drop off; at its upper end just a stone wall lies between the runway and a 10,000’ climb to the peaks of Mount Gonglha (19,000’+) and Mount Kanguru (20,000’+). Once a safe landing (feels more like slamming down) has been achieved, everyone’s attention is turned toward the stone wall approaching quickly and hoping your plane will make the 90 degree turn into the parking area before crushing its nose into the mountain.

For us it was a great day; not only did our flight leave Kathmandu on the scheduled morning but we also landed safely in Lukla. As soon as the plane’s door opened, we were rushed out so another group could load up and depart for Kathmandu. For such a small airport with no vehicles and a limited ground crew, they are very proficient. Total turnaround time from landing with one group and departing with another was approximately 8 minutes. Plus, there is only room for 4 planes at a time so there is constant movement, much like a busy ant farm, until poor weather shuts operations down. Shutdowns occur almost daily stranding travelers in the tiny village, sometimes for days, unless they pay an extra $400-500 each to charter a helicopter back to Kathmandu. We walked around the airport perimeter into the village and made our way to Khumbu Resort for breakfast. While waiting to meet our Sherpas and Assistant Guides, we watched flights coming and going. We witnessed a near tragedy. As a plane was moving downhill toward the end of the runway, one of its 2 engines cut out. Luckily the pilots were able to stop the aircraft before plummeting off the edge of the mountain. The plane barely made it back up the hill to the terminal to get repaired. Openly we joked about the passengers getting their money’s worth but quietly, I’m sure, we were all hoping not to experience the same upon our departure day.

(Not so lucky plane. Source: CanadaNepal.net)

The Trek Begins: Lukla to Phakding:

After a big breakfast of noodles and rice, we followed our Leaders out and began our trek. We stopped briefly to take a group photo before passing through the “National Luminary Pasang Lhamu Memorial Gate” and starting a long decent. All I could think about was having to hike back up this hill on our last day. The weather was awesome; shorts and a single shirt were just right. The day’s hike was only about 5 miles long and predominately downhill from Lukla (2840m/9318’) to Phakding (2610m/8563’) with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. We passed through the villages of Chaurikharka, Cheplung, Thadokosi, Nurning Ghat and Chhuthawa as we paralleled the milky white Dudhkoshi River. We followed Nepali custom and passed to the left of all Stupas (monuments), graves and Prayer Flag poles along the trail. We stopped along the way to spin Prayer Wheels of all sizes, some as small as a toaster and others as big as an automobile. We had our first encounter with yaks (and their poop, much poop, lots of poop) carrying huge loads of supplies to the villages as there are no vehicles to do so in this mountainous region.

We arrived in Phakding around 2:30pm and had the rest of the afternoon to explore the area surrounding the Mountain Resort Teahouse we would call home for the night. The teahouse was very nice with a large main room on the ground floor and 2-person bedrooms on both floors. The rooms were basic with 2 beds, thin mattresses, a light but no power outlets. Bathrooms were located down the hall on both floors. Hot showers cost an extra 300 Rupees (USD 2.64) as the water is heated by propane which is hand carried from Lukla. Most teahouses run on solar power and charge an extra fee if you want to charge your electrical devices. Asia and I passed as I carried a Goal-Zero solar unit attached to my pack. It charged my 2 power-packs during the day’s hike which in turn charged our devices at night. After dinner Asia and I, along with James and Sam from England, donned our headlamps and headed back across the river to the Irish Pub. We turned our headlamps off and chose to cross the hanging bridge in total darkness. It was a fun test of balance as it swayed in the breeze with the sound of the rushing river below us. Upon arrival at the Pub, I was delighted to find out they had Guinness (cans). The owner made sure to show me the expiration date on its sticker to prove its freshness. Lesson learned, “Do not trust the labels” just drink Everest beer. It was the worse Guinness I’ve ever drank, and I’ve drank a few in my life. I quickly switched back to Everest which would be my beer of choice the rest of the trek. We hung out for a couple hours playing pool and reminiscing over the days trek. On the way back, we again chose to go “lights out” across the hanging bridge and then retired to our rooms for the night. It was a great end to an amazing day.

07 October 2018: Phakding to Namche Bazaar

We woke up at 5:30 and were packed and downstairs by 6:30. Asia and I were the first ones ready; imagine that! We were surprised to see fresh snow on the mountain tops surrounding us since it had been so warm the previous day. After breakfast we took a group photo, grabbed our gear and headed up the trail. We passed through the villages of Zamphuti, TocToc, and Benkar before stopping for tea at the Chumoa Guest House. Asia, James and Sam took a dip in the freezing water of a beautiful waterfall along the way. WARNING, here comes the graphic part of my notes: I took a poop in Chumoa that would have made a yak sick if it had stepped in it. I was both amazed and disgusted at the same time. I couldn’t believe my body could create such a putrid stench! Sorry about that but it was in my notes, so I thought I’d share. After tea, we continued upstream until we stopped for lunch in Jorsale. After lunch the trail became harder and steeper. We crossed numerous hanging bridges this day with the tallest being the New Hillary Bridge. Its sight is impressive both from the ground below as well as while crossing it. We had to wait for a caravan of yaks to cross before we would take our turn. Seeing the yaks cross was reassuring that it would have no problem holding us and wouldn’t send us freefalling to our deaths below. The view from the center of the bridge was amazing. There were steep mountains above us and two beautiful rivers, the Duhdkoshi and Bhotekoshi, below. We took a brief rest stop on the other side to prepare for another long, steep climb toward our destination, Namche Bazaar (3440m/11286’ at its low point). Upon entering Namche Bazaar, we passed through a beautiful gate and paused briefly at a monument commemorating a local Sherpa, Pemba Toma. There were also numerous giant Prayer Wheels endlessly spinning by the force of the stream which bisected the village. Namche Bazaar is known as the Gateway to Everest and is regularly used as an acclimation point for new trekkers and a rest point for those on their way back down. There are restaurants, stores and pubs throughout the village which is perched on the side of a hill forming a crescent shape. The ‘Party Crew” (Asia, James, Sam and I) went to the Irish Pub which is listed as the “World’s Highest Irish Pub”. We played foosball and had a few beers to wind down from the days 8+ mile hike; a great end to another amazing day!

08 October 2018: Namche Bazaar Acclimation Day

This day was a “rest day” but that doesn’t mean we just lounged around. The days hike started around 8am with a short but steep trek up through town to the Sagarmatha National Museum and Viewpoint. The museum shares this hilltop with a Nepali Army company responsible for protecting the park. The first thing you see upon reaching the summit is a huge statue of Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, who along with Sir Edmund Hillary from New Zealand, became the first confirmed climbers to reach the summit of Mount Everest (8850m/ 29035’) on May 29, 1953. After a group photo with the statue we entered the museum and enjoyed learning about the region, the mountains and the Sherpa culture.

From there we went back down to the village and then headed up the other side of town to the Syangboche Airport sitting at an elevation of approximately 12,300’. While planes have stopped landing there, it is still used daily for helicopters bringing in supplies. We enjoyed some tea at the Phinjo Lodge and Restaurant there before heading back down to town. The rest of the day was spent shopping, eating, and another fun evening at the Irish Pub.