06 October 2018: Into Lukla, “The Most Dangerous Airport in the World”
After 2 short hours sleep (self-inflicted by closing the
Irish Pub once again), Asia and I awoke, grabbed our gear and congregated in
the hotel lobby with our group waiting for our 6am shuttle to the Kathmandu
airport. We had one of the first flights scheduled to depart to Lukla on this
day. Since flights into Lukla are regularly delayed or cancelled due to poor
weather in the mountains, time was not waisted. We were rushed thru security
and baggage check and then out to our plane. As soon as we, and our bags, were securely
on board we sped off to the runway and away we went. The 14-passenger aircraft
operated by Tara Air was small, loud, and leaking air around the window seals.
I sat in the front seat on the left side immediately behind the pilots (the
best seat) which gave me full view of the mountain tops just beyond the edge of
our plane’s wing as well as a pilot’s view of Lukla’s tiny runway upon our
approach. I had seen videos of planes landing (and crashing) at Lukla on YouTube
prior to our trip but nothing can truly prepare one for the experience we were
about to have. The approach consists of an abrupt drop in elevation, much like that
of a rollercoaster, down toward what appears more like someone’s private
driveway than a busy runway. Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla, is listed as “The
Most Dangerous Airport in the World” due to its very short runway that is
perched in the clouds at an elevation over 9000’. It gains approximately 200’
elevation from one end to the other which helps slow incoming aircraft and
helps launch outgoing flights. At its lower end, an immediate drop off; at its
upper end just a stone wall lies between the runway and a 10,000’ climb to the
peaks of Mount Gonglha (19,000’+) and Mount Kanguru (20,000’+). Once a safe
landing (feels more like slamming down) has been achieved, everyone’s attention
is turned toward the stone wall approaching quickly and hoping your plane will
make the 90 degree turn into the parking area before crushing its nose into the
mountain.
For us it was a great day; not only did our flight leave Kathmandu on the scheduled morning but we also landed safely in Lukla. As soon as the plane’s door opened, we were rushed out so another group could load up and depart for Kathmandu. For such a small airport with no vehicles and a limited ground crew, they are very proficient. Total turnaround time from landing with one group and departing with another was approximately 8 minutes. Plus, there is only room for 4 planes at a time so there is constant movement, much like a busy ant farm, until poor weather shuts operations down. Shutdowns occur almost daily stranding travelers in the tiny village, sometimes for days, unless they pay an extra $400-500 each to charter a helicopter back to Kathmandu. We walked around the airport perimeter into the village and made our way to Khumbu Resort for breakfast. While waiting to meet our Sherpas and Assistant Guides, we watched flights coming and going. We witnessed a near tragedy. As a plane was moving downhill toward the end of the runway, one of its 2 engines cut out. Luckily the pilots were able to stop the aircraft before plummeting off the edge of the mountain. The plane barely made it back up the hill to the terminal to get repaired. Openly we joked about the passengers getting their money’s worth but quietly, I’m sure, we were all hoping not to experience the same upon our departure day.
For us it was a great day; not only did our flight leave Kathmandu on the scheduled morning but we also landed safely in Lukla. As soon as the plane’s door opened, we were rushed out so another group could load up and depart for Kathmandu. For such a small airport with no vehicles and a limited ground crew, they are very proficient. Total turnaround time from landing with one group and departing with another was approximately 8 minutes. Plus, there is only room for 4 planes at a time so there is constant movement, much like a busy ant farm, until poor weather shuts operations down. Shutdowns occur almost daily stranding travelers in the tiny village, sometimes for days, unless they pay an extra $400-500 each to charter a helicopter back to Kathmandu. We walked around the airport perimeter into the village and made our way to Khumbu Resort for breakfast. While waiting to meet our Sherpas and Assistant Guides, we watched flights coming and going. We witnessed a near tragedy. As a plane was moving downhill toward the end of the runway, one of its 2 engines cut out. Luckily the pilots were able to stop the aircraft before plummeting off the edge of the mountain. The plane barely made it back up the hill to the terminal to get repaired. Openly we joked about the passengers getting their money’s worth but quietly, I’m sure, we were all hoping not to experience the same upon our departure day.
(Not so lucky plane. Source: CanadaNepal.net)
The
Trek Begins: Lukla to Phakding:
After a big breakfast of
noodles and rice, we followed our Leaders out and began our trek. We stopped
briefly to take a group photo before passing through the “National Luminary
Pasang Lhamu Memorial Gate” and starting a long decent. All I could think about
was having to hike back up this hill on our last day. The weather was awesome;
shorts and a single shirt were just right. The day’s hike was only about 5
miles long and predominately downhill from Lukla (2840m/9318’) to Phakding
(2610m/8563’) with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. We passed
through the villages of Chaurikharka, Cheplung, Thadokosi, Nurning Ghat and
Chhuthawa as we paralleled the milky white Dudhkoshi River. We followed Nepali
custom and passed to the left of all Stupas (monuments), graves and Prayer Flag
poles along the trail. We stopped along the way to spin Prayer Wheels of all
sizes, some as small as a toaster and others as big as an automobile. We had our
first encounter with yaks (and their poop, much poop, lots of poop) carrying
huge loads of supplies to the villages as there are no vehicles to do so in
this mountainous region.
We arrived in Phakding around 2:30pm
and had the rest of the afternoon to explore the area surrounding the Mountain
Resort Teahouse we would call home for the night. The teahouse was very nice
with a large main room on the ground floor and 2-person bedrooms on both floors.
The rooms were basic with 2 beds, thin mattresses, a light but no power outlets.
Bathrooms were located down the hall on both floors. Hot showers cost an extra
300 Rupees (USD 2.64) as the water is heated by propane which is hand carried
from Lukla. Most teahouses run on solar power and charge an extra fee if you
want to charge your electrical devices. Asia and I passed as I carried a Goal-Zero
solar unit attached to my pack. It charged my 2 power-packs during the day’s
hike which in turn charged our devices at night. After dinner Asia and I, along
with James and Sam from England, donned our headlamps and headed back across
the river to the Irish Pub. We turned our headlamps off and chose to cross the
hanging bridge in total darkness. It was a fun test of balance as it swayed in
the breeze with the sound of the rushing river below us. Upon arrival at the
Pub, I was delighted to find out they had Guinness (cans). The owner made sure
to show me the expiration date on its sticker to prove its freshness. Lesson
learned, “Do not trust the labels” just drink Everest beer. It was the worse
Guinness I’ve ever drank, and I’ve drank a few in my life. I quickly switched
back to Everest which would be my beer of choice the rest of the trek. We hung
out for a couple hours playing pool and reminiscing over the days trek. On the
way back, we again chose to go “lights out” across the hanging bridge and then
retired to our rooms for the night. It was a great end to an amazing day.
07 October 2018: Phakding to Namche Bazaar
We woke up at 5:30 and were packed
and downstairs by 6:30. Asia and I were the first ones ready; imagine that! We
were surprised to see fresh snow on the mountain tops surrounding us since it
had been so warm the previous day. After breakfast we took a group photo,
grabbed our gear and headed up the trail. We passed through the villages of
Zamphuti, TocToc, and Benkar before stopping for tea at the Chumoa Guest House.
Asia, James and Sam took a dip in the freezing water of a beautiful waterfall
along the way. WARNING, here comes the graphic part of my notes: I took a poop in
Chumoa that would have made a yak sick if it had stepped in it. I was both amazed
and disgusted at the same time. I couldn’t believe my body could create such a
putrid stench! Sorry about that but it was in my notes, so I thought I’d share.
After tea, we continued upstream until we stopped for lunch in Jorsale. After
lunch the trail became harder and steeper. We crossed numerous hanging bridges
this day with the tallest being the New Hillary Bridge. Its sight is impressive
both from the ground below as well as while crossing it. We had to wait for a caravan
of yaks to cross before we would take our turn. Seeing the yaks cross was reassuring
that it would have no problem holding us and wouldn’t send us freefalling to
our deaths below. The view from the center of the bridge was amazing. There
were steep mountains above us and two beautiful rivers, the Duhdkoshi and
Bhotekoshi, below. We took a brief rest stop on the other side to prepare for
another long, steep climb toward our destination, Namche Bazaar (3440m/11286’
at its low point). Upon entering Namche Bazaar, we passed through a beautiful
gate and paused briefly at a monument commemorating a local Sherpa, Pemba Toma.
There were also numerous giant Prayer Wheels endlessly spinning by the force of
the stream which bisected the village. Namche Bazaar is known as the Gateway to
Everest and is regularly used as an acclimation point for new trekkers and a rest
point for those on their way back down. There are restaurants, stores and pubs
throughout the village which is perched on the side of a hill forming a crescent
shape. The ‘Party Crew” (Asia, James, Sam and I) went to the Irish Pub which is
listed as the “World’s Highest Irish Pub”. We played foosball and had a few
beers to wind down from the days 8+ mile hike; a great end to another amazing
day!
08 October 2018: Namche Bazaar Acclimation
Day
This day was a “rest day” but
that doesn’t mean we just lounged around. The days hike started around 8am with
a short but steep trek up through town to the Sagarmatha National Museum and Viewpoint.
The museum shares this hilltop with a Nepali Army company responsible for
protecting the park. The first thing you see upon reaching the summit is a huge
statue of Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, who along with Sir Edmund Hillary from New
Zealand, became the first confirmed climbers to reach the summit of Mount
Everest (8850m/ 29035’) on May 29, 1953. After a group photo with the statue we
entered the museum and enjoyed learning about the region, the mountains and the
Sherpa culture.
From there we went back down
to the village and then headed up the other side of town to the Syangboche
Airport sitting at an elevation of approximately 12,300’. While planes have
stopped landing there, it is still used daily for helicopters bringing in
supplies. We enjoyed some tea at the Phinjo Lodge and Restaurant there before
heading back down to town. The rest of the day was spent shopping, eating, and
another fun evening at the Irish Pub.
Watch for Part 3, Namche
Bazaar to Everest Base Camp, coming soon.
